Build A Dining Table
Submitted by btribble on Tue, 02/24/2009 - 15:03
Like to build a new dining table? Here's a quick tutorial. Well, maybe not a tutorial, but I did take a few pictures during the construction of this commission and I will do my best to explain the process.

First step is to design your table. In this case, I created a 3D model on the computer. I really like this much better than the old days of using a drafting table and T-square. Besides being able to look at your designs from all angles, you have a permanent record of how you planned all your joints and can readily see when things don't fit correctly or just plain look funny. It is also painless to make really neat renderings which are perfect for people who can't visualize a 2D paper drawing.

Easily made exploded drawings make it simple to keep track of parts and joinery.

First step is to make the base. It is constructed in two parts. Two frames have been made of ¾" plywood and covered with one layer of 3/8" bending luan plywood. Care must be taken to keep all curves in one plane only.

The two sections are temporarily joined to check fit. Once the veneering is done there will be no chance of corrections.

A second layer of 3/8" luan is cut to pattern and sanded.

Veneer face sheets are taped up and paired with the luan. Care must be taken to properly mark and handle these in order to maintain consistent grain pattern after assembly.

The veneer faces are pressed onto the mating luan pieces, sanded and then the assembly is glued onto the forms with the help of strap clamps and 3" stretch film.

End caps are applied and then the assemblies are sanded and joined together with glues and screws. Access is provided by the holes in the top.

Templates are prepared using ¼" hardboard. The concave curves for the border template is carefully fitted to be an exact match for the convex curve on the field.
Once completed, the field template is placed on a piece of 1" plywood that has been roughly cut to size. Using a hand router and guide bushings with a straight cut router bit the plywood top is cut to the correct size and shape.
A tenon is then cut onto the edge of the plywood for mounting and locating the solid wood banding that is to be made next.

Stock for the border is glued up and assembled using the template as a guide. These are then joined into two curved sides and two ends.

The template is then affixed to a side blank. This assembly is then turned top to bottom and secured to the bench.

Using a bearing under pattern bit, the inside curve is cut flush to the pattern. The outside is left raw to aid in clamping. A mortise is cut to match the tenon on the plywood sub-top.

The edges are fitted onto the sub-top, marked and mitered . . .

. . .then glued onto the sub-top to complete the assembly.

The outside edges are cut to pattern and the miters are splined. The top assembly is sanded and is ready for veneering.

Top and base are dry fitted.

A bundle of veneer is selected for the top (here Flame Makore). Sheets are arraigned to create the best pattern obtainable.

The leaves are then cut to size and joined with veneer tape on their face. This face is cut to size using the luan template that was used to shape the top.

Veneer is laid out for the border of the top. Joints are positioned so that they exactly fall over the miters in the solid banding and the joints in the built up sides. This allows for a border face that is perfectly matched for grain continuity and figure. The Makore fact sheet is then cut into the border sheet thereby causing the field/border joint in the face to be directly above the solid border/sub-top joint below.

The top face is pressed onto the sub-top using a vacuum bag.

After cure, the tape is removed and the top rough sanded.

Any grain irregularities are filled using a sawdust mixture and the top is finish sanded. A light wetting with mineral spirits simulates what the surface will look like after finish is applied.

Because the border and base will be stained while the Makore field is to be left natural, the top is masked off prior to finishing.

Spray on a little lacquer and you've got a table.

